No Carp, No Life (apparently).

“There’s no more tickets left.” I told my husband in disbelief. We were trying to see a game of the beloved local baseball team the Carp. It was only a few days after the tickets went on sale. Sold out instantly for the entire season which goes for six months or so. Unbelievable. This was obviously some years ago, we are now better educated than to expect anything left at the official ticket office.

A-Dome in twilight.
Miyajima – this World Heritage island is popular with both domestic and international tourists.

When you come to Hiroshima, there are two things you do: visit the Peace Memorial Museum/A-bomb Dome; and see Miyajima (“Itsukushima” as the locals traditionally call it). It may be controversial but I would like to suggest the third “must-do”. That’s if you are visiting the town in its baseball season – go and watch a game live at the stadium!

Make no mistake, I’m no baseball fan. In fact, I’m a city girl from Tokyo who refuses to wear any sports club gear whatsoever. Usually. But trust me, it is a truly unique “Hiroshima” experience, I can assure you.

Hiroshima Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium

It’s inevitable you will learn about the Carp if you spent time here. Even if you are not a fan. First of all, you will see the Carp EVERYWHERE. Local ads are filled with its players. If you open a bank account, you’ll get a tissue box with the Carp logo printed on it (and yes, people do want it). Any lucky draw prize would involve game tickets. People’s greetings, followed by the weather, will be about the results of the night before. Your TV host will tell you it’s some player’s birthday today. You will be “educated” on the sport whether you like it or not. It’s worse than the Kiwis with their rugby here.

Yep. Everywhere you look, you will find…

My husband had never seen a baseball game before he came to Hiroshima. But it wasn’t long after we moved that he came home with a red T-shirt that says “No Carp, No Life”. He once wore it on the plane coming back from Sydney, arriving in Tokyo. He was transferring to a domestic flight to Hiroshima and everyone was staring at him, asking the same question. “Are you a Carp fan?” In Hiroshima, you never get asked that question. He wasn’t aware that it is only Hiroshima that people wear baseball gear as everyday wear.

Reserved Seat Tickets for the Hiroshima Carp vs the Yokohama Bay Stars
“Bikkuri Terrace” translates as “Amazing Terrace” which is a special seating area where you can enjoy BBQ while watching a game.

So where do you get tickets? I go to discount ticket shops or online auction sites. If a ticket costs $40 officially, then you may pay double or triple that price. This is regrettable but that’s how it is. Try to choose an ethical seller. Re-selling of Carp tickets has been a big issue here. Especially towards the end of the season if they are close to winning league championship, ticket prices can go up the roof. Easiest to get are “visitors” seats which are technically not for Carp supporters but for the visiting team’s. You are not allowed to wear red or cheer for the home team there. These regulations need to be in place as we all know that even these seats will be filled by disparate Carp fans.

Visitors’ seats are OK. They are cheaper and much easier to obtain but I would recommend sitting somewhere else if you can because it’s fun to sit with the locals and go crazy together with every hit or home run. Even if you don’t care who wins, just be surrounded by these passionate fans is an amazing cultural experience. They even have chants and songs for each player. No matter what the score is, these guys cheer like it’s a close game. You would not see sport supporters quite like them anywhere in the world. They are passionate and crazy but super well-behaved and gentle. Lots of them go and watch with very small children too.

Another special area with comfy mattresses – “Nesobe Area”

If you are a tourist, this is a great opportunity to connect with the locals. Japanese can be shy but inside the stadium, they are rather keen to share joyful moments with total strangers sitting next to them.

My kids came home from school one day rather distressed. They said they were the only kids at school who had never been to the stadium to see the Carp. We needed to rectify. When I told my neighbours we finally got tickets, they asked. “So have you got a uniform each to wear? What about balloons, the cheering goods?” What balloons? What cheering goods? I have been to a baseball game before in Tokyo. I didn’t have to bring anything? Do we all have to wear a uniform? No one does that in Tokyo unless you are a fanatic fan. Then the neighbours brought everything for us. You are to wear a carp shirt (from home, no changing at the stadium) and bring a pair of mini plastic bats to make cheering noise. At the end of the seventh inning, you also shoot red balloons in the air (yes, I know, they do need to reconsider this ritual).

Hiroshima Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium by Night

By the way our neighbors told us they aren’t really a massive fan of the team. I would find out in time that this “Carp cheering set” is a household item in Hiroshima, regardless of your interest level.

We at Cohindoe can help find you some tickets if you are staying with us. We had a Canadian man staying with us and he absolutely loved it. We are an easy bike riding distance from the Mazda “Zoom-Zoom” Stadium and we offer our bikes to ride (free of charge). The stadium is actually not so far from JR Hiroshima but getting stuck behind the post game slow moving crowd is not much fun. Getting taxi or public transport is also quite chaotic. So get on a bike and beat the crowd is the way to go.

Carp pooch carry bag. You will find all sorts of stuff at the stadium shop.

If you are going to the stadium, allow some time to have a look around before the game starts. You’ll find a bouncing castle for kids, cafes, souvenir shops, food stalls all around the stadium with Japanese street foods. Look at different seating options too. “Nesobe Area” is super popular as you can watch laying down on a comfy mattress. There are also seats with BBQ or “bathtub” seats… it’s a little crazy. Don’t think other stadiums are like that in Japan because this is fairly unique.

So when in Rome. Go and watch the Carp at the stadium. And go crazy with the locals.

Balloon time at the seventh inning

Not-So-Secret Hideout

I always dreamt of having a tiny little space of my own somewhere in the house. Somewhere that’s private and I could get away from constant mess of the kids and all the house chores. You would know if you are a mum, right? Maybe dads are the same too. A place where I would take a book and a cup of coffee or something.

One day I was having a breakfast at the dining table and looked up and saw a space between the laundry/bathroom ceiling and the roof that could turn into something. This space was only revealed after we had ripped open the ceiling of the house. It’s like a tiny loft. If I clean all the dust (I was certain would be there that had accumulated over the past century), it could be useful for storage at least if not a romantic “hideout”.

Loft creation
Builder inspecting the space

My idea was instantly dismissed by my husband. “Not a priority” apparently. I sighed. There’s lots to do to the house yet I know. But can’t I decide where to renovate too? Does it always have to be his call? No. I decided to spend my own money and do what I want.

Japanese houses do not have a lot of storage space. We have a storehouse (kura) but we made ours into a living space with a lounge, toilet, and sleeping area to host our Airbnb guests. We had already moved a few old drawers into the main house to create more space so we can host more people. But the storehouse still had a lot more stuff than I would have liked – some that’s quite old and I didn’t want to throw away but didn’t quite know what to do with (like vintage farm gear and plates). Being able to host more guests would be beneficial financially. So hideout or not, having more storage for these things is a good idea.

I got my builders to have a look for a quote. $1200 to enforce the floor with timber so it can take enough weight. A bit more than I hoped for a few tatami mat size space to be honest but that’s what it costs. I gave the go ahead, then I felt so excited.

Now I needed a ladder to get up there. I found a nice old vintage timber ladder online. But the seller sent me the wrong size ladder and blew up on me when I asked for the product I had paid for. A little upsetting since it was his fault. I ended up offering to pay for both ladders as sending back something that large would have cost a lot and he would not cover it. After a bit of dramas I finally got the one I wanted. I decided it was worth it as it is hard to find beautifully aged timber ladders like these.

It only took one day for the builders to finish my mini loft. The new floor came up much higher than I thought, with the roof hanging over my head much too close for comfort which made the space feel smaller. But there it was, my very tiny hideout. I had to walk hunched over most part but I was very happy.


My husband installed a timber bar across the space so I can hook on my ladder. Floor enforced, ladder installed, beams cleaned, invoice paid. View from up there was different and refreshing, made me feel like a kid again. After moving a few items from the storehouse it didn’t feel big enough to relax but I kept some space where I can sit.

As soon as we can safely get up there, the loft was full of kids. My sons would bring their friends over, not that they can do much up there, but they just climbed up and down like a jungle gym, thought our place was a “Ninja” house. We moved some stuff from the storehouse and we can now host four people there. We also bought some camping gear and stuffed it up there.

My secret hideout was not so secret as I would have hoped after all. But it was pleasing to see my little renovation project was rather approved by the little people.

Tny loft
Tiny loft / storage complete.

秘密の隠れ家のはずが

家のどこかに自分だけの秘密のスペースがあったらいいな、と思っていた。子供達のぐちゃぐちゃや家事から離れ、ひとりほっとできる場所。本やコーヒーと一緒に。お母さんなら誰も、そんな気になるよね。いや、きっとお父さんも。

ある日、朝食を食べながら上を見回すと洗面所/お風呂の上と屋根の間にあるスペースが目に留まった。小さいロフト、できるかも。以前、梁を露出するリノベの前にはベニアの天井が貼ってあって見えなかったスペースだ。そんなロマン溢れる隠れ家にならずとも、収納には役立つはず。現に民泊に使っている蔵には何世代分もの嫁入り道具の箪笥が並んでいた。母屋に動かしたものもあるが、「これ、どうしたらいいのー?」というモノがたくさん詰まっている。捨てたくないけど、どうしたらいいか悩ましいビンテージ農具や食器類の数々。スペースが空けば、泊められる人数も増え、経済的にもプラスだ。

が、この案は即座に夫に却下された。「優先順位が低い」。DIYの腕や金銭的な立場から、いつもリノベは彼主導だ。たまには自分の優先順位でやってもよくない?納得いかないので自腹を切ってやることにした。

大工さんの見積もりは10万円ほど。洗面所/お風呂場の上を木材で補強し、歩けるようにする。もう少し安かったら嬉しかったが、かかるものはかかる。それでお願いすると、ワクワクしてきた。

次はこのミニロフトに上がるのに梯子がいる。ヤフオクでちょうどいいサイズの古い梯子を見つけて購入すると、送られてきたものは違うサイズ。用途に合わないので連絡するとなぜかゴネられトラブルに発展。実際購入したものを送ってもらうのは当然のことなのに、結局先方が間違えたにも関わらず両方買うことになった。ちょっと落ち込んだが、ここで意気消沈は不本意だ。何れにしてもイイ感じに経年した梯子は貴重だ。そんな心無い人の元に置いておくのは可哀想だし、ウチが引き取ろう。

工事が始まると1日で完了。夫に梯子をかける木材をつけてもらい、登れるようになった。上から眺めると、家が違って見えた。なんだか子供のようにワクワクした。思ったより床が高くなり、天井がすぐ頭に迫っている。ほとんどは屈まないと歩けない。想像通りものすごい埃だったが、掃除し、梁を拭き、請求書を払い、モノを収納すると達成感に溢れた。スペースが空いた蔵では、4人は泊まれるようになった。調子に乗ってキャンプ用品も買ってロフトに突っ込んだ。お陰で物置感が半端なく思い描いたようなくつろぎ空間ではないけど、ちょっとだけ座れるスペースを残した。

安全に上がれるようになると、ミニロフトは近所の小学生達で溢れた。息子たちが次々と友達を連れてきた。別に何ができるワケでもないのに、登ったり降りたり。「忍者ハウスみたい」と。降りられなくなった中学生もいて、怖いのに登りたい衝動に駆られてしまったところが微笑ましい。

そんなワケで自分の意思で決行した私の隠れ家計画は、とりあえず忍者ハウスの評判と収納スペースに終わったけれど、小さな人たちに気に入ってもらえて満足です。

ジーンときた話。

* English to follow Japanese

最近忙しいからか(完全な言い訳)、ブログ更新の頻度が激減。ダメだ。初志貫徹せねば。写真やブログで記録を残さないとすぐ忘れるし。

色々苦労もあった。民泊もじわじわ軌道に乗ってきた。好意的なレヴューのお陰でいい感じに予約が入ってくるようになった。ウチはチビ達がいるので、常に予約がいっぱいじゃなくていい。いつもいつも「静かにして」「片付けて」と子供達に言うのもフェアじゃないし。やっぱり生活の場だから。

やはり外国人が多い。特にヨーロッパから。古民家に興味を持ってくれる。お茶や着物も本物に興味を示す。周辺のレストランやアトラクションに送り込むと英語が通じなくても満足げに帰ってくる。自分たちだけが外国人なのを、密かに楽しんでいる感じ。

先日お迎えした独新聞記者のF氏。東ドイツ出身だ。私たちがどういう経緯でこの古民家を修復してきたか。伝統、歴史、家族、そんな話で盛り上がった後、F氏は似たようなテーマの独作家のある本について教えてれた。「いつか読んでみるといいよ。」

そう言うのだから英訳があるのだろう、すぐ読んでみたい。と思ったが、読みかけの分厚い本(それも長編シリーズ)があり、これを読み終えたら探してみよう、とその本を心に留めた。連日ウチの自転車で晴天の広島を走り回るF氏、紅葉の美しい季節をすっかり満喫したようだ。彼もまた素晴らしいレヴューを残してくれた。

数週間後、郵便ポストに何やらドイツ語が書かれた小包を見つけ手に取った。本だ!宛名を見なくても誰だか分かった。ジーン(涙)。

同封のカードには、「広島の写真を見ながら楽しかった時を思い出している。どうもありがとう」と。返信用の住所は書いていない。その粋な終わり方が、ふと私の大好きな東ドイツの映画を連想させた。

『善き人のためのソナタ』(独題: Das Leben der Anderen, 英題: The Lives of Others

とにかく毎日一生懸命頑張っていけばいいんだ。とっても素敵なご褒美をいただきました。

I am doing OK, perhaps.

Too busy is my excuse. I am not documenting what we do often enough. Need to keep up otherwise I’ll forget.

A memorable thing happened a few days ago. I received an international parcel and as soon as I picked it up, I knew who and what it was.

We have been running this guest house for a while now. Over time we received great reviews and I am sure that has a lot to do with constant bookings of late.

We tend to have more European guests than others. People who stay here seem to show great interests in true and authentic traditions and culture, rather than something just seemingly Japanese. Our guests seem to love how they are not in the middle of a touristy place, and how they find themselves amongst locals who are pleasantly surprised to see them in this rather quiet residential area.

Mr. F was from Germany who stayed with us a few weeks ago. He asked me about this house and we ended up talking about community, traditions, family, history and so on. Mr. F told me about this book on an old house written by a German author which covers those topics and that he thought I’d enjoy it.

I was immediately interested and took a mental note. When I finish the book I am currently reading (rather thick, it is actually a series), I’ll find the book, must be in English, I thought.

For the next few days Mr. F went everywhere on one of our bikes, enjoying the beautiful autumn weather and landscapes of Hiroshima. He also left us a top review.

Then I received this parcel in the post a few days ago. I was so touched. A card was enclosed but there was no return address. He probably didn’t want me to worry about thanking him. Nice touch. Somehow reminded me of the great ending of the film “The Lives of Others”. It happens to be about East Germany, one of my favourite.

Sometimes it’s hard going. Too often I doubt myself. But times like this I get to tell myself, “Maybe I am doing OK. Just keep grinding and it’ll be OK”. What a gift.