Local Attractions – Whose house is it anyway?

No Carp, No Life (apparently).

“There’s no more tickets left.” I told my husband in disbelief. We were trying to see a game of the beloved local baseball team the Carp. It was only a few days after the tickets went on sale. Sold out instantly for the entire season which goes for six months or so. Unbelievable. This was obviously some years ago, we are now better educated than to expect anything left at the official ticket office.

Miyajima – this World Heritage island is popular with both domestic and international tourists.

When you come to Hiroshima, there are two things you do: visit the Peace Memorial Museum/A-bomb Dome; and see Miyajima (“Itsukushima” as the locals traditionally call it). It may be controversial but I would like to suggest the third “must-do”. That’s if you are visiting the town in its baseball season – go and watch a game live at the stadium!

Make no mistake, I’m no baseball fan. In fact, I’m a city girl from Tokyo who refuses to wear any sports club gear whatsoever. Usually. But trust me, it is a truly unique “Hiroshima” experience, I can assure you.

It’s inevitable you will learn about the Carp if you spent time here. Even if you are not a fan. First of all, you will see the Carp EVERYWHERE. Local ads are filled with its players. If you open a bank account, you’ll get a tissue box with the Carp logo printed on it (and yes, people do want it). Any lucky draw prize would involve game tickets. People’s greetings, followed by the weather, will be about the results of the night before. Your TV host will tell you it’s some player’s birthday today. You will be “educated” on the sport whether you like it or not. It’s worse than the Kiwis with their rugby here.

Yep. Everywhere you look, you will find…

My husband had never seen a baseball game before he came to Hiroshima. But it wasn’t long after we moved that he came home with a red T-shirt that says “No Carp, No Life”. He once wore it on the plane coming back from Sydney, arriving in Tokyo. He was transferring to a domestic flight to Hiroshima and everyone was staring at him, asking the same question. “Are you a Carp fan?” In Hiroshima, you never get asked that question. He wasn’t aware that it is only Hiroshima that people wear baseball gear as everyday wear.

*Reserved Seat Tickets for the Hiroshima Carp vs the Yokohama Bay Stars*

“Bikkuri Terrace” translates as “Amazing Terrace” which is a special seating area where you can enjoy BBQ while watching a game.

So where do you get tickets? I go to discount ticket shops or online auction sites. If a ticket costs $40 officially, then you may pay double or triple that price. This is regrettable but that’s how it is. Try to choose an ethical seller. Re-selling of Carp tickets has been a big issue here. Especially towards the end of the season if they are close to winning league championship, ticket prices can go up the roof. Easiest to get are “visitors” seats which are technically not for Carp supporters but for the visiting team’s. You are not allowed to wear red or cheer for the home team there. These regulations need to be in place as we all know that even these seats will be filled by disparate Carp fans.

Visitors’ seats are OK. They are cheaper and much easier to obtain but I would recommend sitting somewhere else if you can because it’s fun to sit with the locals and go crazy together with every hit or home run. Even if you don’t care who wins, just be surrounded by these passionate fans is an amazing cultural experience. They even have chants and songs for each player. No matter what the score is, these guys cheer like it’s a close game. You would not see sport supporters quite like them anywhere in the world. They are passionate and crazy but super well-behaved and gentle. Lots of them go and watch with very small children too.

Another special area with comfy mattresses – “Nesobe Area”

If you are a tourist, this is a great opportunity to connect with the locals. Japanese can be shy but inside the stadium, they are rather keen to share joyful moments with total strangers sitting next to them.

My kids came home from school one day rather distressed. They said they were the only kids at school who had never been to the stadium to see the Carp. We needed to rectify. When I told my neighbours we finally got tickets, they asked. “So have you got a uniform each to wear? What about balloons, the cheering goods?” What balloons? What cheering goods? I have been to a baseball game before in Tokyo. I didn’t have to bring anything? Do we all have to wear a uniform? No one does that in Tokyo unless you are a fanatic fan. Then the neighbours brought everything for us. You are to wear a carp shirt (from home, no changing at the stadium) and bring a pair of mini plastic bats to make cheering noise. At the end of the seventh inning, you also shoot red balloons in the air (yes, I know, they do need to reconsider this ritual).

Hiroshima Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium by Night

By the way our neighbors told us they aren’t really a massive fan of the team. I would find out in time that this “Carp cheering set” is a household item in Hiroshima, regardless of your interest level.

We at Cohindoe can help find you some tickets if you are staying with us. We had a Canadian man staying with us and he absolutely loved it. We are an easy bike riding distance from the Mazda “Zoom-Zoom” Stadium and we offer our bikes to ride (free of charge). The stadium is actually not so far from JR Hiroshima but getting stuck behind the post game slow moving crowd is not much fun. Getting taxi or public transport is also quite chaotic. So get on a bike and beat the crowd is the way to go.

Carp pooch carry bag. You will find all sorts of stuff at the stadium shop.

If you are going to the stadium, allow some time to have a look around before the game starts. You’ll find a bouncing castle for kids, cafes, souvenir shops, food stalls all around the stadium with Japanese street foods. Look at different seating options too. “Nesobe Area” is super popular as you can watch laying down on a comfy mattress. There are also seats with BBQ or “bathtub” seats… it’s a little crazy. Don’t think other stadiums are like that in Japan because this is fairly unique.

So when in Rome. Go and watch the Carp at the stadium. And go crazy with the locals.

Balloon time at the seventh inning

Japanese DIY materials #2 Persimmon Tannin Dye “Kakishibu”

I have written a little about “kakishibu” in my previous blog Circa mid/late 19 centuries – our “new” door, but it deserves a dedicated blog post in my opinion so here it is.

History -It’s Ancient

“Kakishibu” is a traditional Japanese dye or paint made from unripe persimmons which have been fermented and aged for several years. Deep amber in colour, this natural material has many benefits and it is believed to have been around in Japan for 10,000 years. It was quite commonly used for its waterproofing, desiccating, antiseptic and strengthening effects. Applied to boats, fishing nets, umbrellas and raincoats as a waterproofing agent. It was an essential material to laminate paper used in stencil printing for kimono fabrics. It was also your insect deterrent, deodoriser, remedy for high blood pressure and ointment for burns. This unique and versatile material was quite a popular household item until chemical products took over after the second World War.

As a Building Material

My handy husband applying “kakishibu” paint.

“Kakishibu” is a source of the very image many of us associate Japanese traditional architecture with – that dark colour of timber. It has been an essential material for traditional buildings for centuries. Apparently every household had a pot under the house a few hundred years ago. We always keep a bottle or two around the house ourselves but I am sure people think we are quite eccentric. It can be applied on timbers such as walls, floors, beams and furniture to keep moisture out as well as to protect it from insects such as termites. I have never applied on anything else but apparently works on paper, concrete and stone as well. You can use a paint brush or a cloth. Just take a small amount, apply it, wipe the excess off with a cloth and leave to dry for an hour or so. Repeat this two or three times. It does have a strong smell (you thought natto was bad?) but that will go in a few weeks. Unlike modern paints, it is not mixed with drying medium so it is slow drying (I have brushed against our walls and stained my clothes so be careful). But if you are fixing an old house, I highly recommend this product. It gives such a beautiful natural vintage colour to your house and newly painted parts blend in quite well. Best of all, it’s natural and safe.

Natural and Safe – No VOC

I should have talked about this aspect first. Can’t get more natural than “Kakishibu” as far as a paint goes. If you have asthma or allergies and are concerned about indoor air pollutants or Sick Building Syndrome, “kakishibu” together with “shikkui” plaster is a winner. Sadly “Kakishibu” gave way to modern paints and almost disappeared from daily life of post war Japan but it is gaining popularity again as the world turn to more healthy and environmentally sustainable alternatives.

There were three places that are particularly famous for “kakishibu” production: Minoh (Gifu), Yamashiro (Kyoto) and Bingo (Hiroshima/Okayama). So chances are you can still find quality products from these places. Here is one boutique manufacturer in Hiroshima who are doing a great job of resurrecting their highly praised craft. Takanjo – Bigo Onomichi

If you want a faster drying “kakishibu” paint that’s free from toxic substances, “RJ” in Hiroshima has a paint called “Benkei Nagomi” which come in two different shades of vintage dark brown. One of our builders told me about this and we love their stuff. Check out their other products as well, they have great natural waxes or penetrating sealers for unvarnished timber etc. These are safe and perfect for use in traditional Japanese houses.

Unlikely Patrons – Pirates and Ninja

The Seto Inland Sea, known for its beautiful *archipelagos*.

So this is a silly little postscript. It was good to write this blog as I learnt a lot.

Did you know there were pirates in Hiroshima, one tribe in particular called the Murakami Pirates? They were more like an unofficial navy or “samurais” of the sea, rather than terrorists and thieves as the name might suggest. Around the 15th and 16th century, the pirates controlled waterways around the Seto Inland Sea which was a crucial maritime trade route. Feared, respected and influential, they even built a castle on one of the islands entrusted with “policing ” duty by the ruling Shogun of the time, Mohri. It might sound like a synopsis of the next hit drama on Netflix but it is true. “Kakishibu” is said to have been the Pirates’ must have item. They would have used it on sailcloths, bottom of the ships and fishing nets etc. Given the geography, I would imagine Bigo “kakishibu” must have been a popular commodity for those who work around the sea much more so than that of other cities.

Kouka Ninja – One of the two major clans of ninja (Shiga Pref.)

The other unlikely association to “Kakishibu” is Ninja. People often assume they wore black but it’s actually not the best colour to hide in the dark. In those days, dying fabric in black would have cost a lot more, hence it was not the most worn colour by the ordinary civilians – and this, blending in with the crowd, is in fact one of the guidelines of ninja, according to an old ninja handbook “Shohninki (c 1681)”. “Kakishibu” dyed fabrics could have darkened in time, but black outfit could not have been so typical. There might have been some regional differences but dark brown such as “kakishibu” dye or dark blue such as indigo dye would have been more realistic, given they were supposed to be peasants, merchants, buskers or mountain priests. They certainly weren’t your muscly James Bond in a tux. Don’t quote me on any of the above though, it is just my opinions and observations based on my own research.

Welcome to Our Place!

Yes, we decided. It’s May and Sydney is getting cold. It is time we migrate to Hiroshima again.

I am unusually excited because this time, 7 whole months – longest ever.

I am determined to use this old house for either cultural events or Air BnB now that we are staying for long. We’ve spent enough money. Time to recoup some. Still have loads to do but first up, I made up a floor plan and a map of the Nakao House so we can take those to the council for approval, get permits, make necessary arrangements to open this old house for business.
What can we do here?

I am thinking hands on experience on Japanese plastering (Shikkui), kimono or tea ceremony, music, cooking… Invite Japanese experts and conduct events bilingually. Maybe a small group of 10? With coffee, tea and cake?

Make “Kura” cool again!

It is the coolest part of the house. No point in hiding it. Air BnB. Interested in sleeping in Kura, anyone? Our street used to be full of great “Kura” storehouses but they are disappearing fast. Maybe because it costs so much to maintain. I understand as we too spent over $10,000 fixing but we have less and less tradesmen which is alarming. I want to change this somehow. We have to keep giving jobs to these people, putting some money in, keeping the culture alive.

Why should you stay with us?

Kura (Storehouse), disappearing from our streets.

Well, there aren’t many interesting accommodation options around Hiroshima. Not like Kyoto. This one is full of characters. We are not right in the centre but still pretty accessible and it is rare to find traditional accommodation like this.

Hot spring, views, the “Carp” Love, all here

I also think it is about time travelers to Hiroshima explored a little more South. We are at the skirt of Ohgon-zan (Golden Mountain), only 15-20 min bike ride from JR Hiroshima Station, walking distance from Mazda Museum (I wish they’d do something about those robot-like lady guides, pretty but they are awful), and our beloved Zoom-Zoom Mazda Stadium is near by.

Love of the local baseball team is everywhere!

It is gateway to Kure, you can’t say you’ve come to Hiroshima until you see the beautiful coastlines and floating islands in the region.

Kure has many beautiful beaches. Hardly any waves. Great for kids

So much fun to be had yet I think this area is quite under rated or badly promoted. It has to change.

The Nakao house is located in a very quiet residential area. In fact, you hardly see tourists or foreigners. But isn’t that an attraction for people who want to have glimpse of what sort of life locals lead? There are also a few interesting shops and quirky cafes that are totally off the radar of posh guidebooks.

Ohioan-zan (Golden Mountain) at twilight. Locals’ popular venue for fireworks viewing.

And Ohgon-zan (Golden Mountain) has an awesome lookout, offering breathtaking 360 degrees panoramic views day and night, a must visit. Another nature spot is Hijiyama which gets enough visitors due to close proximity to the city as well as their awesome museums. We even have a perfect family entertainment venue that offers a hot spring, Japanese gardens and restaurants all in one place, walking distance from us – Hanbe, love it.

Experience life like a local

Did I make you at least a bit curious about our house or the area? Sure, you can stay in Miyajima, I’d allow it. But don’t stay in the CBD hotels (unless you want to party all night. You can’t do that here). Stay over our way, ride a bike everywhere (we have a few to rent) and live like a local. Be original.