“There’s no more tickets left.” I told my husband in disbelief. We were trying to see a game of the beloved local baseball team the Carp. It was only a few days after the tickets went on sale. Sold out instantly for the entire season which goes for six months or so. Unbelievable. This was obviously some years ago, we are now better educated than to expect anything left at the official ticket office.
When you come to Hiroshima, there are two things you do: visit the Peace Memorial Museum/A-bomb Dome; and see Miyajima (“Itsukushima” as the locals traditionally call it). It may be controversial but I would like to suggest the third “must-do”. That’s if you are visiting the town in its baseball season – go and watch a game live at the stadium!
Make no mistake, I’m no baseball fan. In fact, I’m a city girl from Tokyo who refuses to wear any sports club gear whatsoever. Usually. But trust me, it is a truly unique “Hiroshima” experience, I can assure you.
It’s inevitable you will learn about the Carp if you spent time here. Even if you are not a fan. First of all, you will see the Carp EVERYWHERE. Local ads are filled with its players. If you open a bank account, you’ll get a tissue box with the Carp logo printed on it (and yes, people do want it). Any lucky draw prize would involve game tickets. People’s greetings, followed by the weather, will be about the results of the night before. Your TV host will tell you it’s some player’s birthday today. You will be “educated” on the sport whether you like it or not. It’s worse than the Kiwis with their rugby here.
My husband had never seen a baseball game before he came to Hiroshima. But it wasn’t long after we moved that he came home with a red T-shirt that says “No Carp, No Life”. He once wore it on the plane coming back from Sydney, arriving in Tokyo. He was transferring to a domestic flight to Hiroshima and everyone was staring at him, asking the same question. “Are you a Carp fan?” In Hiroshima, you never get asked that question. He wasn’t aware that it is only Hiroshima that people wear baseball gear as everyday wear.
So where do you get tickets? I go to discount ticket shops or online auction sites. If a ticket costs $40 officially, then you may pay double or triple that price. This is regrettable but that’s how it is. Try to choose an ethical seller. Re-selling of Carp tickets has been a big issue here. Especially towards the end of the season if they are close to winning league championship, ticket prices can go up the roof. Easiest to get are “visitors” seats which are technically not for Carp supporters but for the visiting team’s. You are not allowed to wear red or cheer for the home team there. These regulations need to be in place as we all know that even these seats will be filled by disparate Carp fans.
Visitors’ seats are OK. They are cheaper and much easier to obtain but I would recommend sitting somewhere else if you can because it’s fun to sit with the locals and go crazy together with every hit or home run. Even if you don’t care who wins, just be surrounded by these passionate fans is an amazing cultural experience. They even have chants and songs for each player. No matter what the score is, these guys cheer like it’s a close game. You would not see sport supporters quite like them anywhere in the world. They are passionate and crazy but super well-behaved and gentle. Lots of them go and watch with very small children too.
If you are a tourist, this is a great opportunity to connect with the locals. Japanese can be shy but inside the stadium, they are rather keen to share joyful moments with total strangers sitting next to them.
My kids came home from school one day rather distressed. They said they were the only kids at school who had never been to the stadium to see the Carp. We needed to rectify. When I told my neighbours we finally got tickets, they asked. “So have you got a uniform each to wear? What about balloons, the cheering goods?” What balloons? What cheering goods? I have been to a baseball game before in Tokyo. I didn’t have to bring anything? Do we all have to wear a uniform? No one does that in Tokyo unless you are a fanatic fan. Then the neighbours brought everything for us. You are to wear a carp shirt (from home, no changing at the stadium) and bring a pair of mini plastic bats to make cheering noise. At the end of the seventh inning, you also shoot red balloons in the air (yes, I know, they do need to reconsider this ritual).
By the way our neighbors told us they aren’t really a massive fan of the team. I would find out in time that this “Carp cheering set” is a household item in Hiroshima, regardless of your interest level.
We at Cohindoe can help find you some tickets if you are staying with us. We had a Canadian man staying with us and he absolutely loved it. We are an easy bike riding distance from the Mazda “Zoom-Zoom” Stadium and we offer our bikes to ride (free of charge). The stadium is actually not so far from JR Hiroshima but getting stuck behind the post game slow moving crowd is not much fun. Getting taxi or public transport is also quite chaotic. So get on a bike and beat the crowd is the way to go.
If you are going to the stadium, allow some time to have a look around before the game starts. You’ll find a bouncing castle for kids, cafes, souvenir shops, food stalls all around the stadium with Japanese street foods. Look at different seating options too. “Nesobe Area” is super popular as you can watch laying down on a comfy mattress. There are also seats with BBQ or “bathtub” seats… it’s a little crazy. Don’t think other stadiums are like that in Japan because this is fairly unique.
So when in Rome. Go and watch the Carp at the stadium. And go crazy with the locals.
It is the coolest part of the house. No point in hiding it. Air BnB. Interested in sleeping in Kura, anyone? Our street used to be full of great “Kura” storehouses but they are disappearing fast. Maybe because it costs so much to maintain. I understand as we too spent over $10,000 fixing but we have less and less tradesmen which is alarming. I want to change this somehow. We have to keep giving jobs to these people, putting some money in, keeping the culture alive.
