Storehouse Accommodation “Cohindoe” open in Hiroshima.
A long and winding road, indeed. But we did it. Finally. We can receive guests here at Cohindoe at last. Come to think of it, it was almost 10 years ago in Kyoto when we first thought of doing this. I can write about all our struggles to get here but let me just say I’m just relieved we are here now. I would like to thank all those lovely people involved in making this place as it looks now. It is still work in progress so watch this space!
If you are not that keen on making a reservation this way, you can just message us.
yuko@nakaohouse.com
I can confidently say that it is a very unique place. We are very proud of it and would love to share this space with all interested. I would like to believe that the house this close to the city or this old did not survive the A-bomb for nothing. We can tell you about the history of this area, how people coped with the war and what this house went through. It is still full of old tools here.
Have you watched the movie “In This Corner of the World”? If not, I highly recommend you watch it before visiting Hiroshima. The girl Suzu reminds me of my grandmother who would have led a similar life. My ancestors used to make Nori (seaweed sheets) here too, which Hiroshima boast the second oldest history in making it next to Tokyo. It is one of the things I would suggest you buy to take home, by the way, if you are into food like I am.
It’s past midnight. I feel like I may not be making much sense as my eyelids are barely open. Good night everyone, hope to see you here at “Cohindoe” one day. Soon.
Admittedly I’m down. Not sure if I am in the right frame of mind to be writing a blog. But this started as a record of our project, didn’t have any real audience in mind any way so I will write it. Today after I hang up a phone call from my brother, I’m asking myself, can I keep going. Can I take it anymore. Is it worth it.
It is not when I fall from 3m high cleaning the beams and hurt myself, nor when I find out we need to bear the unbudgeted cost of fixing the roof. Not when the builders tell me they can’t do it. Nor when people look at us like we are crazy. What makes it really tough is the fact that my own family (in Tokyo) do not support us and disapprove that we are fixing the house that is NOT going to be ours. And when it counts, they quite often try to make it difficult and punish me. I don’t ask them for any help or support usually. This time I cannot go further without their involvement. Because it is a legal matter and I feel like I’m up against a big wall.
It’s been a year since we made a big decision to move from Sydney to Hiroshima with the kids. Looking back, we have achieved so much and the house has transformed dramatically. With newly plastered “Shikkui” walls, kids no longer get asthma attacks in sleep inhaling fluffs off the deteriorated cotton walls. Our chopsticks now don’t roll off the table with the leveled kitchen floor. The rotten floor boards under the tatami mats are now fixed so they no longer bounce like a trampoline. Utility bills don’t skyrocket anymore or we don’t freeze or boil to death as the seasons change because we sealed the earthen floor with timber boards, filled every gap, put ceiling fans, got a powerful gas heater and two additional air conditioners. Our local school kids are now safe walking along the storehouse as the roof tiles, gutter and walls are reinforced. We are not known as a “haunted mansion” now. We have done a massive clean up in the storehouse. Vintage lounge furniture replaced centuries of accumulated rubbish, and a new toilet was installed. Renewed futons and additional blankets mean we can accommodate another family comfortably even in the middle of winter. Upstairs of the storehouse has turned into a secret hideaway. The dirty old kitchen has been demolished and replaced with a functional custom made cabinet which smells beautifully of Japanese cypress. We also installed a commercial gas stoves, oven and hood range so I can comfortably cook for more people.
We thought maybe we are ready for Air BnB. Maybe we can finally use this house for business. We need to recoup some of the money we spent after all. I started frequenting local government offices making inquiries, filling in hundreds of applications, obtaining various legal documents as required. After about a month into it, we found out that because the house is NOT legally my father’s but it is still in the name of our late grandmother, we cannot do anything with it.
After checking all my applications, the guy at the Public Health Centre said sympathetically, “You will need to sort this out at the Ministry of Justice, don’t you. And this may take a while. Be aware, all these documents are only valid for three months so if expired you will need to obtain them again…”
So now I have to trace back all my grandmother’s line and getting their signatures for renouncing their right of inheritance, recognising my father as the hair on top of all the other stuff I need to do to get there. I also need to either pay for a lawyer or produce legal documents myself. As if this wasn’t a hideous enough task. I could not do this without involving my mother and my brother, who are now very defensive about why I am so keen to do this. It is actually to my brother’s benefit that I do this now before anything happens to my father, which would complicate this legal process even more, but they don’t even know that. They certainly weren’t showing any appreciation when I offered to help with this owner change. All I hear is the usual, what is your intention with the house, it is not even yours. Shouldn’t you be asking for OUR approval with anything you do?
Maybe so but they never cared about the house. Ever. Had my husband and I left it as it was seven years ago, it would have been collapsed long ago.
I hang up the phone with my brother who conveyed annoying messages from my mother and I sobbed. They don’t spend a cent, don’t lift a finger to save this house and yet, they can complain, disapprove what we do, better still try to stop me.
Then came my husband’s hug. And the kids joined. A family hug.
When going gets tough, I do two things; one is to look at the note I placed on the fridge. Ironically, those were the words that got founders of Air BnB through hardships, apparently. “Build something 100 people love, not something 1 million people kind of like”. “Launch as many times as you need”. My favorite: “Don’t listen to the voices that say something’s not possible”.
The other thing I do is go and visit my ancestors’ grave. I got some flowers and walked up the hill. I know who are happy. I know who approve. I know who cheer for me. I tell my grans what a struggle it has been and I feel I have been treated unfairly. I hear them say with their warm unpretentious Hiroshima accents, “We are so proud of you, well done. We appreciate your effort so now stop crying” (OK, I am feeling quite sorry for myself I admit). But I also hear them say, “Don’t fight with others, Yuko. You have to make peace”.
So I get up again. Maybe I can go a tiny bit further. One more baby step… maybe.
I try not to think about the fact that I am not to inherit this old house. Because I’m not the oldest male of my family. A lot of people think we are crazy spending so much money and time into this house when we are told constantly that it’s never going to be ours. But if we don’t, no one else will and it was a matter of time before the house collapsed.
So we stopped trying to pursade my parents it’s worth saving and that the rightful owner should fix it. It was wasting our precious time. We just had to save it. At least try our best. Doesn’t matter whose house it is anymore. We owe it to our ancestors to keep the house alive and pass it on to the next generation. I know our actions will be proven worthy some day, even if we might not be alive then.
It’s so sad that majority of Japanese don’t see much value in such traditional old houses. Local people would come around and tell us we should bulldose it and make a car park which is in high demand around this area. “What!? Bulldose this 250 years old house? Car park?” Cried my husband in disbelief. We think THEY are crazy!
I wonder if I would be the same if I never left Japan. I don’t know if I would have really appreciated the beauty of this country as I do now if I always lived here. I wonder if the true reason why I came to live away from my own country was to see Japan from outside and realise the importance of respecting our culture and appreciating what we have here. I do that through restoring this house. It just feels so right. No matter how many people think we are crazy. This is my avocation. This is my life project.